Tarangire National Park
I ended my last column, on the evening of my fifth day, gathered on a raised deck at Tarangire Simba Lodge in Tanzania, where a tree grew right through the floorboards - nature and architecture intertwined.
The lodge is nestled on the edge of Tarangire National Park and offers twenty-four beautifully appointed safari tents, each covered with traditional thatched roofing. Our tent had a large front porch, boasted a polished wooden floor, elegant furnishings, and two queen-sized beds draped in mosquito netting. The bathroom was spacious, featuring both indoor and outdoor showers. There was a cozy sitting area with two chairs and a table – perfect for enjoying morning coffee.
Day 6, June 4
The alarm sounded at 5 a.m. I reached over to silence it, but the noise persisted. Confused, I checked my iWatch—silent. I kept trying to figure out what was going on. Eventually, I stepped out onto the deck to catch the sunrise, and that’s when it hit me: it wasn’t my alarm at all. The sound I mistook for my iPhone’s wake-up tone was the chorus of African birds greeting the dawn.
The birds, whose song perfectly matches my usual alarm tone, had gently stirred me awake. Though it wasn’t yet time for breakfast, I was already dressed and ready to embrace the day. The sky was still dim, so I waved my flashlight—my signal for a protective escort.
The restaurant was quiet, and the deck beside it empty. I settled into a chair with a steaming cup of rich Tanzanian coffee—some of the finest on Earth—and let the tropical birdsong and breathtaking landscape wrap around me like a warm African embrace for a brief but beautiful time of solitude.
As I reflected on my first week here, I felt grateful that WiFi didn’t reach the deck. It forced me to be tuned in to the natural beauty. I laughed to myself about the “false alarm” and the necessity of wearing yesterday’s socks—laundry hadn’t happened yet, despite my hopeful assumptions. My thoughts wandered to the day ahead. What would our safari bring? Lions? Giraffes? More elephants? Warthogs?
After a hearty breakfast, our guide, Witress Emmanuel—owner of Namaste Safaris—wasted no time getting us on the road to the park. We spotted lions, though they were too distant for good photos. Still, we were lucky to see dik-diks (adorable miniature antelopes), elephants, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, zebras, and even eagles.
We had lunch at picnic tables inside the park. Just days earlier, lions had casually strolled through the dining area, though thankfully no one was harmed. That’s the thing about lions—they’re surprisingly unthreatening. They seem utterly unbothered by humans.
Before the safari, we were advised to pack clothes in neutral tones—beige, khaki, green, and gray. Bright or dark colors, especially blue and black, were strictly off-limits, as tsetse flies are drawn to them. I even wore special insect-proof socks, and my clothes had been treated with permethrin for extra protection. Over the course of my month in Tanzania and Kenya, we didn’t encounter many tsetse flies, but when we did, I was grateful for insect-repellent clothing and wipes.
Oddly enough, the most intimidating animals I saw on this trip weren’t the lions, hippos, or crocodiles—but the wild dogs. Behind the fence, they wagged their tails like friendly pets. And they don’t bark, which also makes them seem harmless. But when their meal arrives, they transform into a frenzy of teeth and speed, devouring everything—bones included. It was a blur of motion, almost giving you whiplash just watching.
But I’m getting ahead of myself. None of this happened on Day 6.
When we returned to the lodge, we were welcomed with warm towels and fresh fruit juice—a small but lovely ritual that always made us feel cared for. Dinner was hearty and delicious, and when it was time to wind down, we were escorted back to our fancy safari tent.
That night, the sounds of the wild surrounded us—hyenas calling in the distance, a lion’s low roar, and what I believe was a jackal. But I was too tired to be scared. I knew we were safe and well protected. I slept soundly, knowing that tomorrow would bring another thrilling day with Namaste Safaris.
Tamela is a proofreader and book editor; she hosts paint parties for adults, art and drama camp for kids, and is the art teacher at May River Montessori. www.tamelamaxim.com www.artposseproductions.com
